What is a Dog Crate ?
A dog "crate" is the general
term referring to a rectangular enclosure consisting of a top, a floor,
3 sides, and a door. Crates can be constructed of wire, wood, metal,
molded plastic or a combination of these materials. The purpose of
a crate is to provide a secure short-term confinement area for safety,
housebreaking, protection of household goods, travel, illness, or general
control.
Veterinarians, dog show
exhibitors, obedience and field trial competitors, trainers, breeders,
groomers, and anyone who regularly handles dogs have accepted, trusted,
and routinely used dog crates since their inception. It is the individual
pet owners, who for the most part, have rejected the idea of using a dog
crate. Most consider the use of a crate as unfair confinement, or even
harmful to the dog.
IS CRATE TRAINING AN ACT OF CRUELTY - OR KINDNESS ?
As seen by Some Pet Owners :
"Its like living in jail
- its cruel - I'd never put my dog in a cage." For many typical pet
owners, this is their first reaction. Being human beings, who value
freedom, they envision crates a inhumane. Considering your pet as
an extension of your human family, you do not wish to inflict unjust punishment
upon your 4 legged child. Ask yourself if you would raise a child
without a playpen or a crib to sleep in ?
As Perceived by the Dog :
"I love having a place of
my own; I have my blanket, my favorite toys, no body bothers me in here,
it's all mine." OK, so this isn't a direct quote, but try to see a crate
from another point of view. Dogs have a den instinct. The dog crate
helps to satisfy this instinct. You see it as closed in - he sees
it a security. You may object to being controlled - he only wants
to please you and do whatever you wish.
To you it is a "cage"
- to him it is "home."
WHY WOULD I NEED A CRATE ?
Correctly and humanely used,
a dog crate can have many advantages for both you and your pet. With
the use of a crate you can:
Your dog can:
A dog crate is not recommended
for a dog that will routinely left alone all day. If long term crating
is to be attempted, the dog must be well exercised both before and
after crating, the dog will also need lots of personal attention, and should
be allowed freedom at night (even sleeping near his owner). It is
also critical that the crate be large enough to enable the dog to fully
stretch out and freedom of movement. The crate must have a clip-on
water dish. Under ideal circumstances, if you can arrange to have
someone provide an exercise and attention period during the day; the crate
retains it's "den" attributes as opposed to solitary confinement.
Regarding puppies, a crate
must be strictly used as a "play-pen" for general confinement. It
must have adequate space for a sleeping area at one end and potty papers
at the other. The crate should also be equipped with a clip-on water
dish and dry food bowl. A puppy can be raised in this manner, but
be sure that the puppy has a great deal of human contact, frequent breaks
from confinement (for more than just outside to potty).
To be well adjusted family
member a dog needs human contact, whether the animal is crated or not,
your dog needs play time, training time, and a time to simply relax in
the company of the family to which he is a part (his pack).
WHAT KIND OF CRATE SHOULD I GET ?
Each style of crate has
advantages and disadvantages; therefore it will be up to you to determine
which style of crate best suits your needs. Collapsible wire mesh
crates have the advantage if being collapsible for transport, they have
great air flow, and enable the puppy to see a wide portion of his surrounding
area. Wire mesh crates however are difficult to clean, considering
that debris will trap within the meshing. A wooden crate may "fit"
more appropriately with your furniture, but they are heavy to move, and
wood can not be cleaned as well as a non-pourous surface. Metal crates
also come in a collapsible style, but they are heavy to move and have a
restricted visibility range. Molded plastic crates are lightweight,
and easy to clean, however they do not collapse, making them awkward to
transport or store.
HOW BIG SHOULD THE CRATE BE ?
The crate should be long
enough to allow the dog to lay down stretched out flat on his side, and
tall enough to allow the dog to sit up without hitting his head.
With purebred puppies the adult size is fairly easy to predict. Most
crates are now in standardized size ranges; so selecting one that is appropriate
for your dog has become much less complicated. When in doubt, get
the next larger size. It is always better to have a crate that is
too large as opposed to one that is too small.
CRATE LOCATION IN THE HOME
Since the primary reason
for using a crate is to confine the dog without isolating him, the crate
should be placed in, or as close as possible, to a "people area".
Areas such as the kitchen, family room etc. The crate should be positioned
in a corner or have the sides and back loosely draped with a sheet or towel
in order to enhance its den like appearance for the puppy. The crate
location should also be free from drafts and not too near a direct heat
source.
Admittedly, a dog crate
is not among those items considered "beautiful" furnishings ... it does
however provide your puppy with his own room, and enables your home to
remain intact while the pups training is progressing.
CRATING A PUPPY
A young puppy (8-16 weeks)
should normally adjust well to a crate as being his "own place."
Any initial complaints he might voice are not normally due to the crate,
but rather about his learning to accept the controls associated with his
unfamiliar environment. The crate will help him to adjust to his new world
more easily and quickly, since he is being introduced to this new world
only a small portion at a time.
Crating Routine
With the crate situated
in it's location, the crate needs to be furnished. Bedding can be provided
by using an on towel or piece of blanket which can be washed (should an
accident occur) and some worn unlaundered article of clothing such as a
tee shirt, or old shirt (to help familiarize him with your scent). Do not
put food or water in a puppy crate. The puppy will only upset the dishes,
and this is his bedroom - you do not eat in bed.
Make it clear to children
that the crate is not a "playpen" for them, it is the puppy's room.
You should, however accustom the puppy from the start that people can reach
into the crate at any time, so that the puppy does not become overly protective
of his crate.
A "crate routine" should
be established immediately, closing the puppy in the crate at regular intervals
for 1 to 2 hours during the day. The puppy's nap times will help guide
you in establishing these times. Additionally, whenever the puppy must
be left alone for a period of time, or is going to be unsupervised the
pup should be crated. Prior to crating, be sure to remove the pup's collar
which could become caught in an opening.
At night, in the beginning,
you may want to place the crate in a small enclosed area such as a bathroom
or laundry room. Placing the crate in this area with the door left
open and newspapers nearby, enables the pup to relieve itself without soiling
it's crate. Once the pup matures he will develop greater bladder and bowel
control. When the pup has sufficient control, and if there is no intestinal
upset, he can be crated all night in his usual place.
There may be setbacks -
but don't give up - the keys are consistency and perseverance. The pup
will adjust to the routine - you will have a secure well adjusted companion.
If you do not choose, or
not able, to use the crate permanently, you should plan on using the crate
for at least 5 to 6 months. At this age your pup will be past the teething
phase - at which time you can start leaving the crate door open at night,
or when someone is at home during the day, or when he is going to be left
alone for a brief period of time. If there are no incidences for
a week or two, and the dog is behaving well when left alone, you may be
ready to remove the crate itself and place the dog's bedding in the same
spot. Initially the dog may miss the crate enclosure, but the dog
still has his "place", and the habit of good behavior should continue.
If any problems arise the crate routine can be re-established.
CRATING AN ADULT DOG
The most commom behavior
problem of older puppies (over 6 months) or adult dogs is caused by the
lack of a feeling of security when left alone. A crate can help to
fulfill this need, and will hopefully solve the problems, but it must be
introduced gradually. You must make every possible effort to be sure
that the dog's association with the crate is positive and pleasant. The
owner must also remember that the crate is not to be used for frequent
long-period usage.
How to condition the dog to the crate
Be sure that the crate is
of adequate size (see How Big Should the Crate Be ?). Be sure that the
crate is properly positioned (see Crate Location in The Home). Secure the
door open, so that it can not accidently shut and frighten the dog.
Do not put the bedding in the crate. Allow the dog to investigate
the crate, then lure the dog inside the crate by tossing "special" tidbits
(cheese, liver, hotdog) into the far end. Allow the dog to turn and come
back out. Praise him enthusiastically for his conquest of his fears.
When the dog is confidently entering the crate place his bedding and an
object with your scent in the crate. Coax the dog inside the crate
and try to intice him (with food if necessary) to lie down and relax.
Do not wrestle him into place, he must be comfortable - not forced.
Continue this pattern for several days. Encourage the dog to use
the crate as much as possible, and shutting the door briefly while you
sit beside him or are nearby. The dog may resist in your efforts
to give him a secure home. You must remain firm and consistant, so
that the dog will understand you want him to be in the crate and be quiet.
He may not be content in the crate but he will accept that this is your
desire.
As soon as he has accepted
the crate and you are confident that he will remain quiet when closed in,
you can safely leave him alone. Give him a chew toy or a safe bone
to entertain him while you are gone. Be sure that his collar is removed,
so that it won't get caught on anything. You may want your first
outing to be brief (1/2 to 1 hour), proving to yourself that he has quietly
accepted confinement and reassuring him that you have indeed come back
to him. With the acceptance of the crate as his "special place" the
dog will stop being a problem and start being a pleasure. In due
time you may be able to start weaning him from use of the crate without
resuming problem behavior.
Is Crating Alway Successful ?
Unfortunately, no.
Nothing is 100 percent for all dogs, each dog is an individual. Success
rates are much higher for puppies, than for "senior' dogs. If, despite
every effort at positive conditioning and genuine firmness, the dog is
obviously frantic or totally miserable when confined to a crate, then forcing
the animal into such a situation is indeed inhumane and can result in physical
injury when the dog trys to chew his way out.
Even though the crate is not 100 percent successful,
it is always worth a try. You may have to try a variety of aproaches to
convince your dog that this is what you want and that the crate is a safe
secure den.
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